A Most Pleasant Day in Kamakura

        The first place Akiko took me was Tsurugaoka  Hachiman-gu (aka Crane Hill Shrine). This is the most important Shinto shrine in Kamakura. It was oringally built in 1063 by Minamoto no Yoriyoshi and moved to its present location in 1191 by Minamoto no Yoritomo (founder of Kamakura). It also served as a Buddhist temple for most if its history.

        “As one enters, after the first torii (Shinto gate) there are three small bridges, two flat ones on the sides and an arched one at the center. In the days of the shogunate there used to be only two, a normal one and another arched, made in wood and painted red[2]. The shogun would leave his retinue there and proceed alone on foot to the shrine[2]. The arched bridge was called Akabashi (Red Bridge), and was reserved to him: common people had to use the flat one[2]. The bridges span over a canal that joins together two ponds popularly called Genpei-ike (源平池?), or "Genpei ponds"[4]. The term comes from the names of the two families, the Minamoto ("Gen") and the Taira ("Pei"), that fought each other in Yoritomo's day[4].
The stele just after and to the left of the first torii explains the origin of the name[5]:
The Genpei Ponds
The Azuma Kagami says that "In April 1182 Minamoto no Yoritomo told monk Senkō and Ōba Kageyoshi to have two ponds dug within the shrine." According to another version of the story, it was Yoritomo's wife Masako who, to pray for the prosperity of the Minamoto family, had these ponds dug, and had white lotuses planted in the east one and red ones in the west one, colors which are those of the Taira and Minamoto clans. From this derives their name.
The red of those lotuses is supposed to stand for the spilled blood of the Taira“
“Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū is now just a Shinto shrine but, for the almost 700 years from its foundation until the Shinto and Buddhism Separation Order (神仏判然令?) of 1868, its name was Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū-ji (鶴岡八幡宮寺?) and it was also a Buddhist temple, one of the oldest in Kamakura[10]. The mixing of Buddhism and Shinto had been normal for centuries until the Meiji government decided, for political reasons, that this was to change[11]. (According to the honji suijaku theory, Japanese kami were just local manifestations of universal buddhas, and Hachiman in particular was one of the earliest and most popular syncretic gods. Already in the 7th century, for example in Usa, Kyūshū, Hachiman was worshiped together with Miroku Bosatsu (Maitreya)[12].)
The separation policy (shinbutsu bunri) was the direct cause of serious damage to important cultural assets. Because mixing the two religions was now forbidden, shrines and temples had to give away some of their treasures, thus damaging the integrity of their cultural heritage and decreasing the historical and economic value of their properties[10]. Tsurugaoka Hachiman's giant Niō (仁王?)] (the two wooden wardens usually found at the sides of a temple's entrance), being objects of Buddhist worship and therefore illegal where they were, had to be sold to Jufuku-ji, where they still are[13][14]. The shrine also had to destroy Buddhism-related buildings, for example its shichidō garan (七堂伽藍?) (a complete seven-building Buddhist temple compound), its tahōtō tower, and its midō (御堂, enshrinement hall (of a buddha)?)[10].
In important ways, Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū was impoverished in 1868 as a consequence of this Meiji era policy. The imposed, inflexible reform orthodoxy of this early Meiji period was unquestionably intended to affect Buddhism and Shinto. However, the structures and artwork of this ancient shrine-temple were not yet construed as important elements of Japan's cultural patrimony.[15] What remains to be visited today is only a partial version of the original shrine-temple.” (from Wikipedia)
        We entered the shrine on the flat bridge, the arched one is still blocked off, although I don't know who is allowed to walk on it today. We purified our hands and mouths with water before climbing the stairs to enter the shrine. The majestic red building have white paper “zig-zag” shaped paper hanging from them to ward off bad energy. To the left of the main stairs is a large tree. It is over a thousand years old and decorated with the same white paper. Two statues of  warriors stand on either side of the entrance way to protect the shrine.
        When we approached the shrine, Akiko taught me how to make a traditional prayer. You toss in a coin, clap twice, bow twice, make your wish, and bow once and clap once (I hope I remembered the order right... but I think its more the depth of gratitude that you feel in your heart that is important). There was this adorable couple who came to make their wishes! They held hands and tossed the coin in together and then made their prayers. They were smiling so big! :D I hope their wishes come true, I sense that they will...
        After making the wish, Akiko and I went to get our fortunes. We each shook a small stick out of a box and each stick has a number. Then the woman at the counter took out the top fortune from the pile of fortunes in the box labeled with the number we each pulled. Akiko said my fortune was the second best one possible. It means good luck. Do not waver, and go forward. The fortune then has bits of advice to ensure your wish or prayer comes true. The advice differs depending on what you wished for (ie. A wish, prayers for marriage, relationships, illness, business or exams). I cannot explain why, but the advice I received “try to keep your heart pure” was exactly what I needed to hear. Hopefully my wish will come true... I sense that it will :)
        If you receive a good fortune, you are to take it with you so that it may follow you. If you receive a bad one, you can tie it up and leave it there, so that your bad fortune may not follow you.
        As we were leaving the main shrine, I noticed a smaller one along the side. There was a tree in front and there were 16 white doves in the tree! Definitely an auspicious sign! So I entered this shrine and many a small prayers there as well. However, I didn't get a fortune. One was enough for a day. The entire place gave me a great sense of peace and good fortune. It was so beautiful and serene
        After the shrine, we went to eat lunch. Akiko took me to a small restaurant where we ate tempura, udon noodles with soup, small fish and tuna. It was delicious! And much cheaper than some of the other places I had gone :)
        After lunch, we continued walking, making our way to the Big Buddha. I spotted a totoro store and got very excited! The entire place was dedicated to totoro and other characters of  Miyazaki and the Studio Ghibli. There were so many totoro dolls and cat bus and everything! I was in heaven :)
        My brother and I, along with most Japanese children, grew up watching Totoro. Everything was so expensive though, so I was very hesitant about purchasing anything... but then I remembered when I felt very lonely on the ship and all I wanted was a big totoro to cuddle... so I splurged and bought a stuffed totoro for 3700 yen (about $40). He's so soft and cuddly though! And he has definitely served a great purpose already, I'm sure he will come in handy many more times.
        So then Akiko, Totoro and I went on the to Great Buddha. While walking to the tram to get there we passed through a tunnel that had artwork by local middle school children on the walls. They were so great! I was amazed by the talent of the papercutting! They had cut temples and shrines and they were so intricate and beautiful! There were also small clay bento boxes made by elementary students with little clay rice balls and sushi in them, oishi! (tasty)   :)
        Then we got on a small local tram to go to the Kotoku-in temple. I saw a poster that reminded me of a Japanese “American Dad” type character, Akiko didn't know what it was but the friends that I made later on said it is a local comic strip in Kamakura.  The tram was so close to the surrounding building that you could practically reach out and touch them! I pondered how iritating it must be to the people who live in those homes, but I supposed you get used to it and I bet its very cheap to live there.
        The Great Buddha is inside Kotoku-in temple. It is made of bronze and was originally cast in 1252. It is about 13.35m tall and weighs 93 tons! You can go inside, but we chose not to because it cost 20 more yen and Akiko said it is just dark and there are stairs. The statue is much more majestic from the exterior! The statue was originally housed in a temple, but it was washed away in a tsunami in 1498 and it has been outside every since. This has caused the bronze to oxidize and give the buddha a green color. There is also a large pair of sandals (made of hemp or bamboo I think...) hanging on the wall that were meant for Buddha.
        It was here that I captured my “essence of Japan” photo.
        Professor Gogniat requested that each of us capture one shot that embodies what we view as the essence of Japan. I took a picture looking into a bronze sphere where traditional incense was burning. Through the other side of the sphere you can see a Japanese couple and the woman is wearing a mask over her mouth. I chose this picture because it captures both the traditional worship using incense, the modern couple in the background and the sense of devotion to the community that the Japanese feel. The later is shown by the mask the woman wears. In Japan, if you are sick you wear a mask to cover your mouth so that you do not inflict your illness on those around you. I feel like people would never wear these in the US because we worry too much about the appearance of the individual. In Japan, however, it is not the appearance of the individual that's important, its the health of the community. So that is my essence of Japan. Traditional, modern, community-focused.
        Next, we headed for the Hase Dera Buddhist temple. On the walk we passed by a weapons shop and I peaking in to see the ninja stars and swords. My friend Teri asked me to bring him back a sword, but that's not happening. First, too expensive. Second, I can't have them on the boat. Third, he has no need for one. They were in the range of about 380000 Yen (like $4000). Not worth it. Nonetheless, cool to see so I took a couple pictures.
        The Hase Dera temple has the most beautiful gardens! Unfortunately, I was feeling quite sick to my stomach at this point so I couldn't enjoy it as much as I would have liked, but that's okay. Things happen. We went up to the top and sat to have some tea, which helped to settle my stomach. I took a picture of this great smiling Buddha statue that was chillin in the garden, he was so happy! No pictures allowed inside though. Inside were huge statues covered in gold. Very gotti. I've always found it a bit ironic that Buddhism is supposed to be about removing all material possessions, but the statues are often so materialistic and gotti... I supposed Chan Buddhism (or Zen in Japan) is supposed to be less about the gotti-ness and more about the mental states, but its hard to arise that sense of awe in commoners just by using thoughts. Or at least that's the idea I was taught in class last sememster. Personally, I find the natural world far more awe inspiring than any amount of glitz and gold, but I guess I'm not like most people...
        The zen garden outside was more amazing to me. I loved all the flowers and ponds and small stone figures. The harmony with the natural world is my favorite thing about Japanese architecture and landscaping.
        We had to hurry out of the garden, however, because the time I spent being sick was going to make me late for my shinkansen (bullet train). We got back on the tram and headed to Yokohama Central station. I had already missed the 5:05 train I intended to take to Kobe, so I had to wait for the 5:25 one. Akiko waited on the platform with me and then sent Totoro and I off to our next adventures.
        It was an amazing day with Akiko! I will always remember it and I hope to visit again someday. Especially now that I have made more friends in Kamakura who I'd like to visit as well. Hopefully everyone will come visit me in California, too! (or Michigan or where ever I end up)
Akiko-san Arigatai! It was a wonderful trip, all thanks to you!